The French lemon festival, Fete du Citron, held by the town of Menton, gathers over 140 tons of citrus fruits every year to create elaborate floats and displays. However, none of this citrus is the prized Menton lemon due to scarcity. Menton was once a leading lemon-growing region in Europe with a global reputation and exports to countries like the United States and Russia in the 18th century. However, factors such as the French Revolution, competition from other regions, and the rise of tourism led to the decline of lemon orchards in the area.
There are only 56 small producers of Menton lemons left today, facing challenges such as land development and climate change. Pierre Ciabaud, a sixth-generation lemon-grower, recalls the days when Menton’s valleys were filled with lemon groves, but now land is being sold to developers and replaced with buildings. The annual production of Menton lemons has decreased significantly, making it difficult for young people to sustain a living from lemon farming.
The Menton lemon has a unique flavor profile, larger size, and thicker skin compared to regular lemons. Celebrity chef Mauro Colagreco praises the Menton lemon and features it in his dishes at his three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Mirazur. In 2015, the Menton lemon was granted the protection of a geographical indicator by the European Union to help market and protect its name against inferior varieties.
Laurent Gannac, who has been growing lemons for 30 years, started from scratch on an uncultivated plot of land and has benefited from the geographical indicator. However, Gannac, along with Ciabaud, worries about the impact of climate change on lemon production in the region. While the lemon crop has not been severely affected so far, rising temperatures and changing weather patterns may require farmers to adapt their practices to continue producing high-quality Menton lemons.
Despite the challenges faced by Menton lemon producers, the region’s distinct climate, soil, and geography contribute to the unique flavor and quality of the lemons. The hope is that Menton lemons will continue to be enjoyed by select customers in restaurants and gourmet products, preserving the legacy of this prized citrus fruit. The Menton lemon festival, with its colorful floats and displays, serves as a celebration of the lemon’s history and significance in the region, attracting visitors from around the world to experience the beauty of Menton and its citrus heritage.
