Mexican chef Arturo Rivera Martínez recently became the first taco stand owner to receive a Michelin star for his establishment, Tacos El Califa de León. Located in Mexico City, the humble stand is known for its simplicity, serving only four types of tacos made from high-quality meat sourced from various parts of a cow. Despite the prestigious recognition, Martínez continues to sear meat over an intensely hot grill just as he has been doing for the past two decades. The stand is a favorite among locals for its minimalistic approach to tacos, consisting of a tortilla, red or green sauce, and meat, with Martínez himself enjoying a Coca-Cola with his food.
What sets Tacos El Califa de León apart from other Michelin-starred restaurants is its tiny, 100 square-foot space that is characterized by intense heat emanating from the grill. The stand is a symbol of resistance to change, having operated since 1968 without altering its menu or culinary methods. Martínez’s cooking technique involves quickly grilling thin slices of beef, seasoning them with salt and lime, and serving them on freshly rolled tortillas. Despite the high prices compared to typical Mexican street food, customers flock to the establishment for its exceptional quality and now, its newly acquired star from Michelin.
The stand’s loyal customer base previously included politicians from the PRI party, which has seen a decline in recent years following a change in presidency in 2018. As the neighborhood surrounding Tacos El Califa de León has evolved, with upscale taco chains opening nearby, the stand has remained steadfast in its tradition and refusal to change. The overwhelming heat inside the stand makes dining in an uncomfortable experience, especially during warmer seasons, as the tiny space is occupied by standing customers waiting to savor their tacos.
Despite the coronavirus pandemic and the subsequent opening of street-side seating areas for restaurants, Tacos El Califa de León is unable to provide outdoor seating due to the presence of street vendors who have taken over the sidewalk. Owner Mario Hernández Alonso embraces a philosophy of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” opting to maintain the stand’s original layout rather than adapting to new regulations. The legacy of the business, founded by Alonso’s father, Juan, in the late 1960s, remains intact with no plans to trademark the Califa name or change the establishment’s fundamentals.
As Hernández Alonso navigates the changing landscape of the neighborhood and the evolving culinary scene in Mexico City, he remains committed to preserving the authenticity and simplicity of Tacos El Califa de León. The stand’s historic achievement of receiving a Michelin star has solidified its status as a culinary icon in Mexico, attracting food enthusiasts who appreciate the quality and authenticity of its offerings. Undeterred by competition and societal changes, Tacos El Califa de León continues to uphold its tradition of serving delicious, no-frills tacos to a diverse clientele that appreciates the art of simplicity in Mexican cuisine.
