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A local resident shares her views on the two opposing visions – Savoie and Haute-Savoie – for the French Alps.
Spruce and fir trees tremble along the ravine’s edge below, their branches heavy with rain. The rushing waters of the Bonnant River snake beneath the Valléen gondola some 200 metres below. The view makes my head spin.Few have seen this perspective until now – unless perhaps they’re paragliding. The valley below leads to Geneva, past the rugged cliffs of the Fiz Mountains, the Quatre Têtes of the Aravis Range looming above the town of Sallanches, and the sparkling waters of Lake Passy, where I took my last chilly dip in September. In the opposite direction lies the iconic Mont Blanc.The Valléen, the sweeping cable car that now connects the French Alpine town of Le Fayet at 581 metres to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains at 807 metres, has changed all that, providing views over forested slopes, distant valleys, and plateaus. For Saint-Gervais, located in Haute-Savoie, this is a significant step into modern mountain tourism.Today, I get to loop the trails of the Bonnant Gorge on my new mountain e-bike. Charging down the mountainside through towering forests and alpine meadows, weaving between chalets and circling the lake, I can now simply take the lift back up to Saint-Gervais – the town I’ve called home for several years.But the Valléen isn’t just about panoramas. Together with two other new transport systems – the updated Alpine gondola linking Saint-Gervais to the Évasion Mont-Blanc ski area with its 400km of slopes, and the wastewater-powered Ascenseur des Thermes funicular connecting the town centre to its historic thermal baths – Saint-Gervais is becoming a symbol of sustainable four-season tourism.Le Fayet to the peaks using scenic, sustainable transportIn operation since September, the Valléen gondola has already become a favourite with locals and visitors alike. With its year-round schedule, five-minute journey time, and 8pm closing time, the gondola is cutting local traffic and making journeys far easier – whether that’s to work, the thermal baths, or the ski slopes.If you’re a skier arriving by train at Le Fayet then you can reach the heart of the Évasion Mont-Blanc via the Valléen gonodola, which links to the Alpin gondola, taking you to Saint-Gervais’ mid-station, the Bettex, at 1,400 metres.This ski area includes Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Megève, which most recently featured in the Netflix show ‘Emily in Paris’, as well as Les Contamines-Montjoie, Combloux, and La Giettaz.Or from La Fayet or Saint-Gervais, take the Mont Blanc Tramway – one of the highest cogwheel trains in France – to Les Houches. Part of the larger Chamonix Valley this is another eco-considerate transport offering. Nature benefits too: these updates are projected to cut CO2 emissions by 15 per cent and reduce local road traffic by 25 per cent, eliminating up to 15,000 vehicle trips annually. Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc is now the only French mountain resort to offer train and cable car access from major European railway lines, all year round.Tradition meets innovation in Saint-GervaisAs a resident of Saint-Gervais, I’ve seen how these transport innovations are part of a broader trend towards greener tourism. The Ascenseur des Thermes is a marvel of modern engineering designed by British engineer Michaël Farme. Powered by a counterweight of 1,200 litres of wastewater, this funicular is functional and completely eco-considerate.The timings of the funicular have also been a game-changer. Operating until 11pm each night means Saint-Gervais’ restaurants and bars are now open to evening visitors without requiring a car to arrive – a boost for the town’s economy and culture.“This isn’t just about transport – it’s about reimagining mountain access for future generations,” explains Jean-Marc Peillex, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains’ mayor. “We’re proving that innovation and environmental responsibility can go hand in hand.”These projects are in line with Haute-Savoie’s strategy of prioritising sustainability, wellness, and cultural tourism over the mass-market ski resorts that dominate its sister region, Savoie.The difference between the two departments was laid bare this year with the dissolution of the Savoie Mont Blanc Tourisme agency. After 18 years of promoting both Savoie and Haute-Savoie as a single Alpine destination, the two departments have gone their separate ways.Savoie, home to the big resorts of Tignes and Les Arcs, is relying on its ski heritage. Haute-Savoie, which includes Chamonix, Annecy, Les Gets, and Morzine, is, on the other hand, diversifying. With many wellness and gastronomy offerings, you’re encouraged to stay longer and can also visit year-round.For me, Saint-Gervais embodies this philosophy. While skiers come to its slopes, spa seekers are drawn to its thermal waters, flowing at 39°C and offering everything from wellness retreats to dermatological treatments. The town’s Belle Époque architecture, cultural festivals like La Foire Agricole, and gastronomic highlights – including the Michelin-starred Serac, the charming Ferme de Cupelin, and the slope-side ‘Le Boitet’ by Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Renaut – add to its year-round appeal.Alpine rivalries go back a long waySaint-Gervais’ efforts to assert its identity haven’t been without drama. A long-standing rivalry with neighbouring Megève flared up earlier this year when mayor Peillex accused Megève’s mayor of trying to annex parts of Saint-Gervais, including Mont d’Arbois, to extend its ski domain. Peillex jokingly threatened to consult Donald Trump on building a border wall, but beneath the quip lies a real debate about governance, land use, and revenue sharing in the Alps.The dispute highlights the challenges of competition and collaboration in the region. They may share the same ski terrain but the towns have different visions: Megève is focused on luxury and exclusivity, while Saint-Gervais seeks out accessibility and sustainability.Feeling at home in Haute-SavoieAs a Saint-Gervais resident, I’m grateful for the town’s authenticity. I’m not a fan of purpose-built mega-resorts with brutalist architecture, and a population that ebbs and flows like the nearby Arve River.Here, it’s a living, breathing community. Even as a Brit, there’s a good chance of improving one’s French in the ‘Three Mousquetons’ or ‘Nordique’ bars – though watching France v England in the Football World Cup and Six Nations games is always tense!We also have local artisan beer and spirit producers, a vibrant farmers’ market, and a great food scene that’s less expensive than nearby Megève.For me, I like the the year-round appeal: Skiing in winter, and then the rest of the year heading out on mountain biking trails, open-water swimming, climbing, trail running and, of course, enjoying the iconic La Folie Douce by the Mont-Joux chair lift. And after a long day outdoors, there’s nothing better than relaxing in the thermal baths.While Saint-Gervais leads the way in sustainable tourism, it remains true to its soul, which is a rare thing in the modern Alpine landscape. Whether you come for the slopes, the spas, or just to breathe in the mountain air, you’ll find a place that’s as old as it is new.
