The article discusses the designers who preceded Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela, and Christophe Lemaire. Gaultier was known for his experimental approach and desire to expand the silhouette, integrating ideas like fetishism. Margiela, on the other hand, was described as consolidating the fundamentals of the brand. Lemaire brought his own unique perspective to the house, but Vanhee-Cybulski wanted to differentiate herself by looking back at the original silhouettes from the ’20s and ’30s designed by women like Lola Prusac and Catherine de Karolyi.
On the topic of being a female designer in the industry, Vanhee-Cybulski reflects on the challenges and perceptions around gender. She believes that gender should not dictate one’s abilities as a designer and that she should not have to justify her capabilities based on her gender. She acknowledges the progress made in terms of gender equality, but recognizes that there is still much work to be done. She sees a conversation about women designers happening in the industry, but believes that fashion is merely a reflection of societal norms and values.
The focus on function over form is emphasized by Vanhee-Cybulski, who sees Hermès as a brand built on transmission and stability. The idea is that when you acquire an object from Hermès, you know it will last and can be passed down through generations. There is a sense of anchor and stability that comes with owning a Hermès piece. The concept of functionality is crucial to the brand, with a motto centered around designing objects that are practical for everyday use. Vanhee-Cybulski believes that this focus on functionality ensures that Hermès remains relevant in the constantly evolving fashion landscape.
Vanhee-Cybulski draws inspiration from the female designers who left their mark on Hermès throughout the years. She admires the imprint they have made on the brand, despite the fact that the first clothes designed for women by Hermès were adaptations of men’s clothing. By looking back at the work of these women, she aims to continue their legacy and bring a fresh perspective to the brand. Vanhee-Cybulski sees herself as a searcher, exploring the roots of the brand and drawing from its rich history to inform her designs.
In considering the legacy of Hermès and the importance of maintaining the brand’s core values, Vanhee-Cybulski emphasizes the significance of heritage and craftsmanship. She believes that the longevity of the brand is tied to its ability to create timeless pieces that hold sentimental value for their owners. By staying true to the principles of functionality and quality, she aims to ensure that Hermès remains a relevant and cherished brand for generations to come. Vanhee-Cybulski’s approach to design is rooted in tradition but also looks towards the future, blending past influences with her own unique vision for the brand.
