The Apple TV+ show The New Look culminates with Christian Dior’s Paris haute couture debut in 1947, featuring a collection of voluptuous curves and abundant use of material that shocked the fashion world and sparked actual fights in the streets. Dior’s radical new silhouette was complemented by his establishment of a New York atelier to create more practical versions of his made-to-measure designs for modern American lifestyles, inspired by women designers like Claire McCardell and Elizabeth Hawes. This storyline could be a fitting theme for season two of the show.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director since 2016, recently fulfilled her desire to showcase a collection in New York, drawing inspiration from her personal style, which values sportswear and denim. She focuses on creating adaptable wardrobes where each piece can be mixed in different ways, emphasizing functionality. Chiuri’s design aesthetic is reflected in the fall collection she presented in February, inspired by the opening of the Miss Dior boutique in 1967 and the Paris-made ready-to-wear collection designed by her predecessor, Marc Bohan. The collection featured nipped waist silhouettes and designs influenced by Marlene Dietrich’s commissions from Dior.
The Christian Dior pre-fall 2024 show took place at the Brooklyn Museum, a location that holds significance for Chiuri, as it hosted the retrospective titled “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” in 2021. Before the show, Chiuri expressed her affinity for New York’s influence on her style, incorporating sportswear and denim into her designs. She prioritizes functionality and adaptability in her collections, focusing on creating pieces that can be mixed and matched in various ways. The fall collection’s inspiration was rooted in historical events such as the opening of the Miss Dior boutique and collaborations with iconic figures like Marlene Dietrich.
Chiuri’s collection at the Brooklyn Museum featured designs that harkened back to styles from two decades earlier, including nipped waist silhouettes and jackets inspired by Marlene Dietrich’s commissioned pieces from Dior. The collection paid homage to the actress’s iconic look, with one model sporting the top hat, white waistcoat, and black tails worn by Dietrich in the nightclub scene from Morocco. Chiuri’s designs drew inspiration from historical events and collaborations while showcasing her signature aesthetic of functionality and adaptability.
The show at the Brooklyn Museum highlighted Chiuri’s unique approach to design, blending historical references with modern sensibilities to create a collection that pays homage to iconic figures like Marlene Dietrich and historical moments in fashion history. Chiuri’s emphasis on functionality and adaptability resonates throughout her designs, reflecting her personal style influenced by New York’s fashion landscape. The collection featured a mix of nipped waist silhouettes, jackets inspired by historical collaborations, and iconic looks that capture the essence of Dior’s heritage while infusing a contemporary twist.
