Costume designer Keri Turini took on the project to design the costumes for the show Lady in the Lake after having worked on Issa Rae’s Insecure. She had just written a goal of costume designing a ’60s period piece in her journal on New Year’s Eve when she was approached by director Alma Har’el through an Instagram DM. Turini spent over eight months researching 1960s style and the birth of futurism in order to create the looks for the characters Maddie and Cleo. This research process also helped her later on with outfitting Beyoncé’s futuristic Renaissance Tour, creating a full circle moment for her.
In creating the costumes for Lady in the Lake, Turini took a more realistic approach, basing her designs on what women living in Baltimore in the 1960s would have actually worn. She wanted to go beyond just sourcing era-relevant magazines for inspiration and delved into finding out what people in the community would wear in different settings such as night clubs, horse races, and in relation to the betting system, which is a key plot line in the show. Turini wanted to ensure that the costumes were rooted in reality and reflected the specific idea of futuristic fashion as seen through the eyes of the characters.
For Turini and Har’el, it was important to not just rely on typical ’60s fashion trends such as shift dresses and raised hemlines. They wanted to create a more nuanced and authentic portrayal of the time period, especially in Maddie’s world where futuristic fashion played a significant role. Turini drew inspiration from the community in Baltimore, where the show was filmed, and the people on set who had ties to the city. Many members of the crew were from Baltimore, and their personal stories and photographs of family members influenced the design process, adding an extra layer of authenticity to the costumes.
The show Lady in the Lake is loosely inspired by the real 1969 deaths of Esther Lebowitz and Shirley Parker, and Turini’s research and attention to detail in designing the costumes helped bring a sense of realism to the characters. Turini was particularly inspired by being surrounded by people with connections to Baltimore, including lead actress Lupita Nyong’o and other members of the cast and crew. This close connection to the city and its history added depth and richness to the costumes, allowing Turini to create authentic and relatable looks for the characters.
Turini’s approach to costume design for Lady in the Lake involved a deep dive into researching the era and the specific context of the show, beyond just typical ’60s fashion trends. She wanted to create costumes that felt true to the characters and the time period, while also reflecting the unique futuristic vision of the show. By immersing herself in the community and collaborating with local talent, Turini was able to bring a sense of authenticity and depth to the costumes, enhancing the overall storytelling and visual impact of the show. The costumes in Lady in the Lake serve as a reflection of the characters and their world, grounding the show in a sense of realism and authenticity.
