According to pharmacist Lena de Pons, the key to achieving shiny, healthy hair lies in using the right shampoo with an acidic pH level. This goes against the traditional belief that the actual washing technique is more important than the products being used. De Pons explains that the pH level of the shampoo can significantly impact the structure of the hair cuticle, affecting how light reflects off the hair and ultimately creating a shiny appearance. Acidic shampoos help to seal the cuticle, while alkaline shampoos can cause the cuticle to open up, resulting in dullness and damage.
De Pons uses a visual analogy to explain the concept of the hair cuticle and how it is affected by pH levels. She compares the structure of the hair cuticle to a set of flat cells that resemble the tiles on a roof. In an alkaline environment, such as when using an alkaline shampoo, the cuticle opens up, making it appear more like the branches of a fir tree. On the other hand, an acidic shampoo helps to contract the cuticle cells, stacking them closely together and creating a smooth surface that reflects light, resulting in a shiny appearance.
The importance of using pH-appropriate shampoos is particularly evident in hair treatments such as bleaching or coloring, where alkaline substances like ammonia are used to open the cuticle and allow the dye to penetrate the hair cortex. By using acidic shampoos and treatments afterwards, the cuticle can be sealed back up, resulting in smooth, shiny hair. De Pons emphasizes that most shampoos are formulated to clean the scalp and should be used as intended by applying them to the scalp only. She cautions against imitating the aggressive scrubbing and lathering motions often seen in commercials, as this can actually damage the hair cuticle.
Incorporating an acidic pH shampoo into your hair washing routine can help seal the hair cuticle and improve shine. De Pons recommends applying the shampoo to the scalp and gently massaging it in, avoiding unnecessary scrubbing or tangling of the hair. By following the intended use of the shampoo and using products with the proper pH levels, you can optimize the health and appearance of your hair. This advice from de Pons serves as a useful reminder that sometimes the key to great hair lies in the small details, such as choosing the right shampoo and using it correctly. By understanding the science behind hair care, you can achieve the coveted “hair glow” that is the result of a sealed cuticle and reflective surface.
