Summarize this content to 2000 words in 6 paragraphs in Arabic Unlock the Editor\u2019s Digest for freeRoula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.Susan Grant Lewin seeks jewellery that is both beautifully made and \u201cintellectually challenging\u201d. The corporate communications professional says: \u201cI believe that [it] can decorate the mind in the same way it can decorate the body.\u201d She is drawn to abstract designs and collects unique pieces by artist jewellers.As a child, she would follow her mother around antique stores in Philadelphia, where she grew up, and was \u201cfascinated\u201d by the jewellery she saw. Her interest in contemporary pieces was piqued when, working as a journalist, she visited Copenhagen in the late 1960s to cover a furniture fair. There, she fell for the work of the Swedish silversmith and jeweller Vivianna Torun B\u00fclow-H\u00fcbe, who created some of the best-known designs by the Danish brand Georg Jensen.I am not interested in precious gems. They detract from the artistry of the pieceHowever, it was being commissioned to write the 1994 book One of a Kind: American Art Jewelry Today that kick-started Lewin\u2019s collecting. She used her advance to travel round the US and visit jewellers. \u201cNeedless to say, as I went to each studio I would buy a piece and\u2009.\u2009.\u2009.\u2009I woke up one day and said, \u2018I\u2019m a collector\u2019,\u201d explains Lewin, now president of Susan Grant Lewin Associates, the New York-based architecture, art and design communications consultancy that she founded in 1996.She has since accumulated hundreds of jewels \u2014 and is \u201cstill shopping\u201d. Eighty-four of her pieces form the exhibition A Collector\u2019s Journey: Susan Grant Lewin and the Art Jewelry World at the University of Miami\u2019s Lowe Art Museum (June 21-September 14).Claire Falkenstein pendant (early 1960s)A copper and Murano glass pendant by Falkenstein is among the oldest jewels in Lewin\u2019s collection. The American sculptor and painter created it while working on one of her best-known pieces, the metal and glass New Gates of Paradise for Peggy Guggenheim\u2019s home-turned-museum on Venice\u2019s Grand Canal.\u201cShe was absolutely a relentless experimenter\u2009.\u2009.\u2009.\u2009and her work is beautiful,\u201d says Lewin, who recently bought three other Falkenstein pieces at auction. She is driven to collect by the \u201cexcitement of discovery\u201d.Kiff Slemmons beetle (2003)This unusual Slemmons piece is \u201csymbolic\u201d of Lewin\u2019s friendship with the Chicago-based metalsmith. \u201cI don\u2019t see her very often, but we get along tremendously well and she\u2019s one of the most important jewellers in America,\u201d says Lewin, who plans to return the jewel to Slemmons at some point as she knows it \u201cis magical to her as well\u201d.The brooch comprises a metal beetle, a wooden ruler and a small magnifying glass. \u201cKiff uses what are now called \u2018alternative\u2019 materials,\u201d says Lewin. \u201cIt is to ask a question about the preciousness of these materials, because jewellery has unexpected potential for beauty.\u201dThomas Gentille brooch (21st century)The collector is \u201cexcited by the exploration of materials\u201d in jewellery. \u201cI\u2019m absolutely not interested in precious gems,\u201d she says. \u201cThey detract from the artistry of the piece.\u201dHer wooden brooch is decorated with Gentille\u2019s signature eggshell inlay, a technique the American artist jeweller invented after becoming enamoured with the beauty of traditional Japanese lacquerware.While Lewin does \u201cpepper\u201d her collection with work by younger makers, she says it is \u201ccentred on the leaders\u201d in the field, including Gentille, whose work is owned by museums including New York\u2019s Metropolitan Museum of Art. \u201cWith Thomas, the beauty and perfection of his work put him in my mind as the number one jeweller in America,\u201d she says.Petra Zimmermann cuff (2009)Lewin was drawn to this bracelet by Vienna-based jewellery artist Zimmermann even though it is \u201cmuch more ornamental\u201d than the pieces she generally buys. It is made from acrylic covered in gold leaf, set with historic costume jewellery findings, rhinestones and obsidian.\u201cMaybe, somewhere deep down inside, I\u2019m interested in a little glitz and a little bling,\u201d says Lewin. \u201cEveryone has a little weakness.\u201dWarwick Freeman pendant (2004)Many of Lewin\u2019s purchases are now made on her travels outside the US. During her first trip to New Zealand earlier this year, she visited Freeman in his studio and bought White Bird, a pendant made from Corian, a material better known for its use in kitchen countertops.The jeweller\u2019s design is inspired by gannets diving into the sea at Muriwai, on the coast west of Auckland. \u201cI\u2019m not usually attracted by objects from the natural world\u2009[but] this is very abstract and dynamic, and beautifully sculpted and carved,\u201d says Lewin.While her daughter has first choice on pieces in her collection, Lewin has given jewellery to various institutions. Her gifts to the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum in New York, Yale University Art Gallery, and Savannah College of Art and Design Museum of Art, plus her planned donation to the Lowe Art Museum after the upcoming show, total more than 250 pieces. \u201cContemporary jewellery I consider as important an art form as painting and sculpture, but it\u2019s slow to catch on,\u201d says Lewin. \u201cBy donating and having museum shows, the public sees it and gets interested and, maybe, people start buying it and collecting it.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Summarize this content to 2000 words in 6 paragraphs in Arabic Unlock the Editor\u2019s Digest for freeRoula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.Susan Grant Lewin seeks jewellery that is both beautifully made and \u201cintellectually challenging\u201d. The corporate communications professional says: \u201cI believe that [it] can decorate the mind<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[65],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-56677","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-culture"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56677","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=56677"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56677\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":56678,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56677\/revisions\/56678"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=56677"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=56677"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/globetimeline.com\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=56677"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}