In Julie Satow’s book When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion, she shines a light on three influential women in the 20th-century fashion industry: Hortense Odlum, Dorothy Shaver, and Geraldine Stutz. These women made significant contributions to the fashion world through their roles as presidents of prominent department stores in New York City. Satow’s research revealed that women in leadership roles in the workforce were not a modern phenomenon, as she had originally thought, but had been breaking the mold for a long time. In fact, Macy’s had hired its first female executive in the 1890s, highlighting the long history of women in positions of power in the industry.
During the early 20th century, department stores played a crucial role in the fashion world, similar to fashion magazines. Without the convenience of the internet or social media, department stores were one of the primary sources for keeping up with the latest trends in fashion. Dorothy Shaver, in particular, played a critical role in promoting American fashion designers like Claire McCardell and Elizabeth Hawes by including their names in Lord & Taylor advertisements. Similarly, Geraldine Stutz introduced American consumers to European designers like Sonia Rykiel and Jean Muir, as well as launching the career of American designer Stephen Burrows. These women acted as fashion king-makers, helping designers showcase their creations to a wider audience.
The book’s title, When Women Ran Fifth Avenue, alludes to the fact that Odlum, Shaver, and Stutz were at the helm of their respective retail businesses on 5th Avenue in New York City. Satow delves into the journeys these women took to reach the top of the fashion industry, highlighting their tenacity and resilience in a male-dominated field. Alongside their stories, Satow also includes shorter histories of other notable women in the fashion industry, further emphasizing the significant role women played in shaping the industry.
Satow’s exploration of these pioneering women in American fashion sheds light on a lesser-known aspect of the industry, revealing the significant impact they had on shaping the landscape of fashion in the 20th century. Through their leadership and innovative approaches, Odlum, Shaver, and Stutz paved the way for future generations of women in the industry. Their contributions to promoting American and European designers and democratizing fashion for the American consumer were crucial in solidifying their positions as powerhouses in the fashion world.
The book serves as a tribute to these trailblazing women who defied societal norms and expectations to rise to the top of a competitive industry. Satow’s detailed research and engaging storytelling bring their stories to life, offering readers a deeper understanding of the challenges and triumphs these women faced in their quest for success. As a journalist with a keen eye for untold stories, Satow’s work highlights the importance of recognizing and celebrating the achievements of women who have made lasting contributions to the fashion industry.
Overall, When Women Ran Fifth Avenue is a compelling read that sheds light on the often overlooked history of women in fashion. Through the stories of Odlum, Shaver, and Stutz, readers gain insight into the inner workings of the fashion industry and the pivotal role these women played in shaping its trajectory. Satow’s exploration of their lives and legacies serves as a reminder of the enduring impact of women in positions of power and influence, inspiring future generations to continue breaking barriers in the world of fashion.
